It works fine on my board , maybe you are not doing it correctly. If Pencil Mod dont work for you for vdroop you must be doing something wrong. What pencil are you using? Have you measure voltages with multimeter?
I have done both mods on my board and they do work if done correctly , now i did the mod with VRs in it is stable as a rock, but before the VRs i did the Pencil mod and worked like a charm ,Maybe its your board, dunno , but Shaminos guide mods work 100% and have been tested by many of us
Try to redo the pencil mod removing it and reapplying it.
- I've used three different pencils. I've tried the mod twice with each pencil.
- Every pencil showed a change in the VCore
- Every time the VCore was more or less lowered instead of being stabilized
I've used a Ohmmeter (Voltmeter), and each time I could see that the resistance was lowered after having applied the pencil.
Once, the Vcore was lowered from 1.47v idle under Vista (before the mod) down to 1.26v after the mod. Another time, the VCore was lowered about 0.1v. I didn't measure the real voltage but sometimes the PC didn't even boot.
I don't understand what's happening, I will try with a new 2B or 4B pencil but I'm a bit sceptical...
How about you get a soldering iron and do a hard mod? It's a bit more difficult than a pencil mod, but it gives much more predictable results.
I think the p35 has a voltage regulator with an offset pin (pin #10, look online for isl6327 voltage regulator docs). This pin is usually not connected to anything.
If you connect this pin with a variable resistor to either ground or Vcc, you have a volt mod. Can't guarantee that it's that easy on your board, but on my ASRock 775dual-VSTA, this was the perfect way to do it.
For the droop / Vdrop mod, the best way is to find all components that are part of the feedback loop and scale them down: resistors to half the value, capacitors to twice the value. This way you don't change the overall gain or frequency response at the FB pin, but you change the amount of droop.
P.S. I forgot to mention that for soldering on your board, I have found a battery-powered iron the best. I got one for ca. $12 at Fry's (the Hakko fx-901), it has 4x AA batteries and a really fine tip, perfect for doing fine work on a board. It's also perfect because you're not restricted by a power cord.